Yesterday Carlisle, today Edinburgh, and, unbelievably, sunshine!
I arrived in Carlisle as the weather was clearing and after settling into my room, headed towards the town centre for a bit of culture at the Guildhall Museum. Sadly it was not to be, "Unexpectedly closed due to needing significant structural repair" said the sign. Bother. Having decided I'd seen enough cathedrals for now, I did the next best thing, if you are a stereotypical female, anyway, and went shopping. Mundane stuff 'though, underwear at M&S, and a Barbour (get this) gilet (vest to kiwis), from a store aimed specifically at clothing for the country outdoors! Yes, really. A sort of not for tramping/climbing/camping Kathmandu. Lots of really warm clothing, must because the UK is cold more often than it's warm.
In spite of the lure of the credit, sorry, debit, card, I managed to notice numerous really interesting old buildings. As a border town, sometimes Scots, sometimes English, sometimes Cavalier, sometimes Roundhead, Carlisle has had a chequered and at times cruel history. Lots of info from googling Carlisle, UK.
As it was sunny this morning I decided to head for Edinburgh along Hadrian's Wall and spend some time at Vindolanda, the roman fort on the wall which is proving an astonishing treasure trove for archaelogists who believe that at least 9 forts were progressively built on the site. Digging continues there every summer, and the artifacts range from metal to leather to fabric, even. Much of the deeper material is anaerobic, so no microorganisms and no oxygen to destroy materials such as leather, wood and even some fabrics. The museum on site is very well done and tells a good story - factual, of course - with some AV of archaelogists talking about some of the more exciting finds.
I came north via a B road, through the wild border lands, steep, near barren, and cold! I had stumbled on a tourist bus route so avoided stopping at the lookouts, peopled by cold looking people, doubtless wishing they could get back on the bus and get warm again.
Scottish farmland is reminiscent of much NZ countryside. Well more the other way around really, pastures a bit rough, plantations of spruce, rather than pine and drystone walls everywhere are the major differences. It's windy too, many trees had that distinctive lean, frequently seen around Wellington and the Wairarapa.
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