It's a bank holiday this weekend so I've booked into a motorway services hotel - grey and boring but, again the usual comfy bed and hot shower is more than adequate. It took me a while to find the switch for the heated towel in the bathroom (had laundry to dry) - it was on the outside wall of the bathroom (the side opposite the towel rail). Go figure.
I did the park and ride into Cambridge, that is such a good service - just make sure you know which bus-stop to take back to your p&r carpark! With my itinerary in my phone, I headed off , found a few interesting bits, see the pic of the sign of the crown hotel, glorious! and then the lowering grey cloud just simply got to me. I'd had enough, here I was in glorious Cambridge, which, according to Lewis, is always sunny, and it was, again, cold and yuk. So I caught the bus back to my dreary (but warm) hotel and veged all afternoon, listening to Radio 4 and knitting. Yes, I know, boring but maybe I needed a break. Tomorrow I'm heading west again to Berkshire and will visit Hatfield House on the way. May even get some sunshine, if the weather forecasters are right. photos later.
Friday, 1 June 2012
Friday, 4 May 2012
7th Earl of Howard Monument
This picture was taken at the beginning of the drive from near the 'house' looking towards the monument, which was completed about 1870. I've cropped it to about half the original distance and it is still a very long drive... (with a couple of 'gates' in a couple of walls on the way).
Thursday, 3 May 2012
On York and Yorkshire
Another day another Minster - the largest in Northern Europe, one of the guides told me - apparently the Spanish have something larger. However, having taken some 260 years to build it would have to be excessively grand. A tennis-court-sized stained glass window is shrouded by its printed facsimiles while conservators remove each panel from its place, and painstakingly clean, re-lead, and replace the glass, so when finished it will be back to its original brightness. A couple of partially restored panels were displayed in lightboxes. An irreverent thought, such delicacy and detail didn't ought to be fixed into lead came, 50feet above those looking at it. Why must we see only coloured patches in a huge backlit window? Perhaps visitors to churches sporting such magnificent glass art should be issued with powerful binoculars so they can clearly see the detail in the large windows. Maybe a bank of (seaside) telescopes, requiring a coin to operate - that would bring in the money!
During my travels I have come to realise that many UK churches' stained glass is donated memorials to family individuals, or members of regiments felled in wars such as the Boer and the Great War. Magnificent stained glass often was installed well after a church or cathedral was built, or sadly, replaced original installations destroyed during the reformation (Henry the Eighth and his rewriting of divorce law at the bottom of that!)
I've had enough of historic buildings so went to Castle Howard yesterday. Yes, another historic building, but one built to glorify the great and powerful of politics and state. (Used as the site of both Brideshead Revisited productions) I was particularly drawn to the gardens, and aspects created by landscape artists - a joy to live in such manicured perfection. The rose garden will be fabulous in a month or so, for now the bushes are producing their leaves.
As I drove south towards Cambridge today I altered my view of Yorkshire, not the dour and sere moors, but fertile farms, many lighting the grey skies with large plantings of bright yellow flowering rape. It really is an uplifting colour, those who plant fields of rape cannot help feel happy when looking on the crop, it surely brightens the day for those hissing along the roads in the rain.
Tomorrow Cambridge. An encouraging weather forecast indicates the sun may show its face, for a few minutes at least. I'm going to do the park and ride, and get myself to the 'backs' where students disport themselves, and many a comic scene has been viewed as punters punt, or not, on the Cam.
During my travels I have come to realise that many UK churches' stained glass is donated memorials to family individuals, or members of regiments felled in wars such as the Boer and the Great War. Magnificent stained glass often was installed well after a church or cathedral was built, or sadly, replaced original installations destroyed during the reformation (Henry the Eighth and his rewriting of divorce law at the bottom of that!)
I've had enough of historic buildings so went to Castle Howard yesterday. Yes, another historic building, but one built to glorify the great and powerful of politics and state. (Used as the site of both Brideshead Revisited productions) I was particularly drawn to the gardens, and aspects created by landscape artists - a joy to live in such manicured perfection. The rose garden will be fabulous in a month or so, for now the bushes are producing their leaves.
As I drove south towards Cambridge today I altered my view of Yorkshire, not the dour and sere moors, but fertile farms, many lighting the grey skies with large plantings of bright yellow flowering rape. It really is an uplifting colour, those who plant fields of rape cannot help feel happy when looking on the crop, it surely brightens the day for those hissing along the roads in the rain.
Tomorrow Cambridge. An encouraging weather forecast indicates the sun may show its face, for a few minutes at least. I'm going to do the park and ride, and get myself to the 'backs' where students disport themselves, and many a comic scene has been viewed as punters punt, or not, on the Cam.
Tuesday, 1 May 2012
Whoops, I missed Durham
I left Edinburgh in mizzling rain, and then, by the time I reached Berwick North, the rain had stopped and the fog was reducing visibility to about 20 metres at times. I decided to drive slowly - what else could I do? I had lunch at a pub somewhere, oven baked salmon with lovely, fresh green beans, broccoli and carrots. The berry crumble to follow was more of a compote, of redcurrants and strawberries, deliciously tart, with a crunchy topping. Didn't need dinner after that!
Just outside Durham, my accomodation for the night was delightful. Lovely comfy beds, a normal sized bathroom, definitely room to swing the proverbial (cat, I mean!) and, from my window, a view across the valley to a pretty village. By the time I arrived the fog had lifted which is why I could see the view.
This morning the view was even better as the sun was shining, weakly, but you take what you can get, the locals say. My hosts chatted me over the best prepared breakfast I've had so far, including pineapple and melon to start, mushrooms, just crisp enough bacon, scrambled egg and fresh, oven baked truss tomatoes. Such healthiness!
British bread is not good, when it's brown that is all it is. Even whole grain, when toasted, develops that awful empty crispness - almost sandy in texture.
There was a 6month old British Bulldog puppy in residence, clearly training itself to be a real character. They look really mean but are absolute sooks, in my experience. Not very bright, must be the shortage of oxygen getting to their brains through those scrunched up nasal passages.
York next, will do the must sees - the Minster, York Museum and try and finally see some of the Great Houses in the area. So far they've all been closed - out of season - or open 'tomorrow, or next week'. Weather forecast for tomorros is for SUN - maybe it will turn out correct!
Just outside Durham, my accomodation for the night was delightful. Lovely comfy beds, a normal sized bathroom, definitely room to swing the proverbial (cat, I mean!) and, from my window, a view across the valley to a pretty village. By the time I arrived the fog had lifted which is why I could see the view.
This morning the view was even better as the sun was shining, weakly, but you take what you can get, the locals say. My hosts chatted me over the best prepared breakfast I've had so far, including pineapple and melon to start, mushrooms, just crisp enough bacon, scrambled egg and fresh, oven baked truss tomatoes. Such healthiness!
British bread is not good, when it's brown that is all it is. Even whole grain, when toasted, develops that awful empty crispness - almost sandy in texture.
There was a 6month old British Bulldog puppy in residence, clearly training itself to be a real character. They look really mean but are absolute sooks, in my experience. Not very bright, must be the shortage of oxygen getting to their brains through those scrunched up nasal passages.
York next, will do the must sees - the Minster, York Museum and try and finally see some of the Great Houses in the area. So far they've all been closed - out of season - or open 'tomorrow, or next week'. Weather forecast for tomorros is for SUN - maybe it will turn out correct!
It's been a while
Somehow Edinburgh didn't have a blog in it at the time, or perhaps it was because I spent time with my long-lost cousin and his family, and the walk from Edinburgh Castle to Holyrood House, then back to George Street to catch the bus was memorable more for the distance than for the sights - not really true.
I am rather crowd averse, and even more averse to packs of tourists - you know: Take a photograph of everything and if possible take a photo of every member of your party in front of everything, I don't know what is achieved but it looks as if they are enjoying it.
St Giles Church: has memorials, furnishings and the usual amazingly carved decorations on the ceiling and decorating much of the walls etc. A number of touching epitaphs on the memorials. There was a lovely carving of a very human John Knox, standing with other city notables flanking the main entrance (just about 60 cm high, I'll post the photo shortly).
As you walk down the Royal Mile, views are revealed down the alleys that connect to other streets, and the backyards of the many shops and pubs. Tourist trap heaven, I can't imagine why one would want to take up a special offer of 5 tartan scarves for £20.00, well, perhaps I can, very easy gift buying.
My visit to Holyrood House started out with a giggle. For your £10.75, you receive a digital audio device with a tour guide. The first one they gave me was in Dutch, the second in French, third time lucky got me the English version. I wondered, do I sound as if English isn't my first language?
The recorded guide was very informative and polite. "When you are ready, go left and through the next door, and push the green button to continue this commentary."
It must cost squillions to keep the place warm, some of the staircases are in the turrets - with open arrow slots, many of the windows seem to fit poorly, letting in frigid draughts.
Oh, and the other thing about Edinburgh, it was cold. Icy in fact when the breeze hit. My long walk day was sunny so hardy souls, equating sun with warmth, poor things, were out with bare arms. I noted that many of them were the types who sport tattoos, must be a sign of manliness to freeze your ... off.
I am rather crowd averse, and even more averse to packs of tourists - you know: Take a photograph of everything and if possible take a photo of every member of your party in front of everything, I don't know what is achieved but it looks as if they are enjoying it.
St Giles Church: has memorials, furnishings and the usual amazingly carved decorations on the ceiling and decorating much of the walls etc. A number of touching epitaphs on the memorials. There was a lovely carving of a very human John Knox, standing with other city notables flanking the main entrance (just about 60 cm high, I'll post the photo shortly).
As you walk down the Royal Mile, views are revealed down the alleys that connect to other streets, and the backyards of the many shops and pubs. Tourist trap heaven, I can't imagine why one would want to take up a special offer of 5 tartan scarves for £20.00, well, perhaps I can, very easy gift buying.
My visit to Holyrood House started out with a giggle. For your £10.75, you receive a digital audio device with a tour guide. The first one they gave me was in Dutch, the second in French, third time lucky got me the English version. I wondered, do I sound as if English isn't my first language?
The recorded guide was very informative and polite. "When you are ready, go left and through the next door, and push the green button to continue this commentary."
It must cost squillions to keep the place warm, some of the staircases are in the turrets - with open arrow slots, many of the windows seem to fit poorly, letting in frigid draughts.
Oh, and the other thing about Edinburgh, it was cold. Icy in fact when the breeze hit. My long walk day was sunny so hardy souls, equating sun with warmth, poor things, were out with bare arms. I noted that many of them were the types who sport tattoos, must be a sign of manliness to freeze your ... off.
Friday, 27 April 2012
On the smallest shower in the world
So far, the one in Carlisle is winning but the Edinburgh B&B is running very close behind. I reckon the shower base is about 80mm square. A tall person would have to open the door and get out to pick up the soap! Mind your elbows! They do have plenty of hot water, though, using those instant electric devices that deliver fast, endless hotwater, as advertised. The units have options to choose the flow rate you require, I can't see anyone wanting less than full flow, because even that is less than gushing!
Ever northwards
Yesterday Carlisle, today Edinburgh, and, unbelievably, sunshine!
I arrived in Carlisle as the weather was clearing and after settling into my room, headed towards the town centre for a bit of culture at the Guildhall Museum. Sadly it was not to be, "Unexpectedly closed due to needing significant structural repair" said the sign. Bother. Having decided I'd seen enough cathedrals for now, I did the next best thing, if you are a stereotypical female, anyway, and went shopping. Mundane stuff 'though, underwear at M&S, and a Barbour (get this) gilet (vest to kiwis), from a store aimed specifically at clothing for the country outdoors! Yes, really. A sort of not for tramping/climbing/camping Kathmandu. Lots of really warm clothing, must because the UK is cold more often than it's warm.
In spite of the lure of the credit, sorry, debit, card, I managed to notice numerous really interesting old buildings. As a border town, sometimes Scots, sometimes English, sometimes Cavalier, sometimes Roundhead, Carlisle has had a chequered and at times cruel history. Lots of info from googling Carlisle, UK.
As it was sunny this morning I decided to head for Edinburgh along Hadrian's Wall and spend some time at Vindolanda, the roman fort on the wall which is proving an astonishing treasure trove for archaelogists who believe that at least 9 forts were progressively built on the site. Digging continues there every summer, and the artifacts range from metal to leather to fabric, even. Much of the deeper material is anaerobic, so no microorganisms and no oxygen to destroy materials such as leather, wood and even some fabrics. The museum on site is very well done and tells a good story - factual, of course - with some AV of archaelogists talking about some of the more exciting finds.
I came north via a B road, through the wild border lands, steep, near barren, and cold! I had stumbled on a tourist bus route so avoided stopping at the lookouts, peopled by cold looking people, doubtless wishing they could get back on the bus and get warm again.
Scottish farmland is reminiscent of much NZ countryside. Well more the other way around really, pastures a bit rough, plantations of spruce, rather than pine and drystone walls everywhere are the major differences. It's windy too, many trees had that distinctive lean, frequently seen around Wellington and the Wairarapa.
I arrived in Carlisle as the weather was clearing and after settling into my room, headed towards the town centre for a bit of culture at the Guildhall Museum. Sadly it was not to be, "Unexpectedly closed due to needing significant structural repair" said the sign. Bother. Having decided I'd seen enough cathedrals for now, I did the next best thing, if you are a stereotypical female, anyway, and went shopping. Mundane stuff 'though, underwear at M&S, and a Barbour (get this) gilet (vest to kiwis), from a store aimed specifically at clothing for the country outdoors! Yes, really. A sort of not for tramping/climbing/camping Kathmandu. Lots of really warm clothing, must because the UK is cold more often than it's warm.
In spite of the lure of the credit, sorry, debit, card, I managed to notice numerous really interesting old buildings. As a border town, sometimes Scots, sometimes English, sometimes Cavalier, sometimes Roundhead, Carlisle has had a chequered and at times cruel history. Lots of info from googling Carlisle, UK.
As it was sunny this morning I decided to head for Edinburgh along Hadrian's Wall and spend some time at Vindolanda, the roman fort on the wall which is proving an astonishing treasure trove for archaelogists who believe that at least 9 forts were progressively built on the site. Digging continues there every summer, and the artifacts range from metal to leather to fabric, even. Much of the deeper material is anaerobic, so no microorganisms and no oxygen to destroy materials such as leather, wood and even some fabrics. The museum on site is very well done and tells a good story - factual, of course - with some AV of archaelogists talking about some of the more exciting finds.
I came north via a B road, through the wild border lands, steep, near barren, and cold! I had stumbled on a tourist bus route so avoided stopping at the lookouts, peopled by cold looking people, doubtless wishing they could get back on the bus and get warm again.
Scottish farmland is reminiscent of much NZ countryside. Well more the other way around really, pastures a bit rough, plantations of spruce, rather than pine and drystone walls everywhere are the major differences. It's windy too, many trees had that distinctive lean, frequently seen around Wellington and the Wairarapa.
Tuesday, 24 April 2012
The wilds (I don't think so!) of Herefordshire
Did a tiki tour of the area today, meandering along country lanes, catching glimpses of magnificent views - see earlier post. I'm fascinated by the way houses are dotted along the way, many with doors onto the road, others perhaps 5 or 10 metres back behing hedges, or not. Everywhere you look is a chocolate box image.
I finally managed to locate a gas canister that fits my 2 burner cooker, so will definitely be coffeeing tomorrow morning before setting off for places north - heading for Lancashire, first of two legs up to Edinburgh to visit my cousin whom I first met when he was about 3 or 4.
The hillsides are getting greener by the day, and the apple orchards, this being a major cider brewing area, are just coming into flower. Some trees are neatly espaliered and controlled, others look as if they are ancient - in tree terms - all twisted and untidy, some limbs clearly dead, but still attached, sticking (well branching really) out of the blossoming, live tree.
Lunch at Ledbury - ham and mushroom flan (otherwise quiche) with delicious salad and a good coffee - they are hard to find, as I was advised. Browsed an antique(!) market today, lots of lovely jewellery and crystal etc, even a set of antique planes (well, maybe not antique, just old fashioned.
I was 15 mins late back to the carpark and found myself ticketed! They don't half charge, £25 as long as I pay within 5 days, or £50.00 if I don't get on to it. That's a lesson well learned! If I ignore it the vehicle hire company will oncharge me when it reaches them!
Spot the crows' nests
Soon, as the leaves burgeon and thicken, the masses in these trees will be invisible, but for now, which of these trees is infested with miseltoe and which is infested, well perhaps populated, with crows nests? I wonder if the crowsnest on sailing ships was so named to due to the fact that these large black birds always nest high up - one wonders if they have toe ropes in the nests to avoid being blown out.
Hereford etc
It's raining, still or again, I can't decide. Exactly as forecast, surprise.
Hamster and I went to Hereford today, first to Tesco for a wee bit shopping, then a wander round the town and Hereford Cathedral.
It wasn't raining this morning and a drive in the English countryside offers the pleasures of pretty villages, beautifully manicured fields, some looking as if they have been mowed and rolled like a green on a golf course and are awaiting the arrival of 5 star sheep, others rolling away, aglow with yellow rapseed. Some fields have been planted with grain and are already 30 cm tall. The hillsides, where not cultivated, are covered in low level treets - coppiced perhaps? These are in the process of turning from their winter fawn into the lettuce green of spring. As each day passes they are greener.Hereford Cathedral, where lies the Mappa Mundi, is lovely. On arrival I was greeted by a verger in a blue gown (as in scholar) who directed me to the shop, cafe and new wing, where the locked books share space with the Mappa Mundi. (MM)
I felt a surge of spirituality when the organist began to practise, though I do think he had the trumpet stop too loud...
The MM is a fanciful middle ages map of the known world, drawn and scribed on vellum - a single calfskin, and populated with creatures derived from a very active imagination. It is now very faded but scholars have created a facsimile, coloured bright blue, red and green, as it would have been when new. It has survived because it was created at Hereford, and never left. More in Wikipedia.
I've bought a tea towel, yes I know, true kitsch, printed with the map and supplied with a key to the latin names and descriptions. Did you know that a race lived once that had large upper lips, with which they shaded their faces from the sun - so MM says, anyway.
I asked the curator in the locked book section to point out to me Sam Johnson's original printed dictionary, two volumes, sort of A3 size, complete with chains, and locked into the bookcases. The locked books, all immensely valuable and rare (I guess one begets the other) are available for study by scholars, who are allowed to take them 'upstairs' to the reading room, rather than sit on the hard benches by the bookshelves.
The cathedral contained much of the usual, monuments to past bishops and worthies of the parish, a glorious choir and screen behind the high altar, plus a set of recent stained glass windows, in 'modern' style commemorating Thomas Traherne, a 17th century metaphysical poet, who's work was largely lost. More at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thomas_Traherne.
The vast space was heated by Gurney Heaters, a Victorian Monster, designed, apparently, for church heating.
Hamster and I went to Hereford today, first to Tesco for a wee bit shopping, then a wander round the town and Hereford Cathedral.
It wasn't raining this morning and a drive in the English countryside offers the pleasures of pretty villages, beautifully manicured fields, some looking as if they have been mowed and rolled like a green on a golf course and are awaiting the arrival of 5 star sheep, others rolling away, aglow with yellow rapseed. Some fields have been planted with grain and are already 30 cm tall. The hillsides, where not cultivated, are covered in low level treets - coppiced perhaps? These are in the process of turning from their winter fawn into the lettuce green of spring. As each day passes they are greener.Hereford Cathedral, where lies the Mappa Mundi, is lovely. On arrival I was greeted by a verger in a blue gown (as in scholar) who directed me to the shop, cafe and new wing, where the locked books share space with the Mappa Mundi. (MM)
I felt a surge of spirituality when the organist began to practise, though I do think he had the trumpet stop too loud...
The MM is a fanciful middle ages map of the known world, drawn and scribed on vellum - a single calfskin, and populated with creatures derived from a very active imagination. It is now very faded but scholars have created a facsimile, coloured bright blue, red and green, as it would have been when new. It has survived because it was created at Hereford, and never left. More in Wikipedia.
I've bought a tea towel, yes I know, true kitsch, printed with the map and supplied with a key to the latin names and descriptions. Did you know that a race lived once that had large upper lips, with which they shaded their faces from the sun - so MM says, anyway.
I asked the curator in the locked book section to point out to me Sam Johnson's original printed dictionary, two volumes, sort of A3 size, complete with chains, and locked into the bookcases. The locked books, all immensely valuable and rare (I guess one begets the other) are available for study by scholars, who are allowed to take them 'upstairs' to the reading room, rather than sit on the hard benches by the bookshelves.
The cathedral contained much of the usual, monuments to past bishops and worthies of the parish, a glorious choir and screen behind the high altar, plus a set of recent stained glass windows, in 'modern' style commemorating Thomas Traherne, a 17th century metaphysical poet, who's work was largely lost. More at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thomas_Traherne.
The vast space was heated by Gurney Heaters, a Victorian Monster, designed, apparently, for church heating.
Monday, 23 April 2012
Heading north, well, west really
I have found a rolls royce campsite, and it should be at £20.00 per night! So, what is good about it, well the showers are not only hot but there is a significant flow of water, punctuated by the need to regularly push the timer tap to keep the flow going and the facilities are heated bliss! It's beside the River Wye, not far from Hereford, and I went for a lovely walk yesterday afternoon, in the sunshine, along the path beside the river. It is possible to hire canoes for a paddle but not for me I think. It is, however, quite common for travellers to hire canoes at one end of the Wye Valley and paddle downstream (upstream would be very hard work).
I've booked in for three nights, seduced by endless hot water? Not really. I plan to visit Hereford to day and view the Mappa Mundi, a fanciful world map, painted on Vellum, and also visit other places of interest in the town.
Tomorrow I'll drive around the black and white villages - you'll see when I uplaod photos what that is all about and then head north on Wednesday - two legs up to Edinburgh to see my cousin and his family. I'm contemplating booking into a hotel for a couple of nights up there - pretty chilly, this camping lark here at this time of year and Scotland is doubtless even chillier. Plus I am struggling to keep iPad and iPhone charged, not spending much time on the road where I can plug them into the car charger.
Hamster is serving me well, driving well and the GPS is getting better and better now I am getting the hang of it.
Ran out of Gas this morning, so haven't had a caffeine fix, but will redress that on arrival in Hereford.
Sunday, 22 April 2012
Oxford Photos
An extremely once-over lightly to Oxford, via the park and ride facility which doubtless serves to minimise congestion in that city. Full of student and academic types, much of the centre is pedestrianised (what an awful word - another of those words created because it's easier to scramble together a root word with common suffixes than find the original - perhaps there is no original here, I can't think of one just now). I may return on my way back to London, and take one of the walking tours, on this visit I arrived later than planned because I had to wait for my washing to dry in the camp drier before leaving - joys of camping! I'd like to travel back in time, and see the city's colleges before the hustle and bustle of the 21st century was upon them, perhaps the 1950's. Now every second person on the street is glued to their cellphone, as in London.
I walked behind a young man who couldn't be other than a student with his purple hair, mostly hidden under a beanie, bright green trousers that exposed at least six inches of cotton boxers, and, a T-shirt in a dull grey, proclaiming a store for the best dressed gentlemen - not a good advertisement! I was very tempted to take a photograph but didn't want to open myself to a negative reaction. Yes, I know, what a wimp.
I spotted this elaborate pub sign.
Once I found the correct bus stop, bump of direction failure, I'm afraid, the journey back to Newbury was simple, back to dinner with my Uncle and Aunt, before returning to the campsite for the night.
Yesterday I drove into SE Wales up the Wye River Valley, The escarpments above the river are ready to burst into spring green, but for now are shades of grey and beige, with just a hint of buds ready to burst. The river looks as if there has been rain, running fast and brown. I did some planning during the evening and have decided to head for Hereford today and base myself at a campsite there and visit places of interest nearby, I hear the Cider trail is fun - sadly no designated driver so I may just visit the place Lonely Planet recommends as the 'must-see'.
Weather has cleared, at least for the moment so here's hoping my sunny umbrella stays with me. It's no mystery that camping when it's raining, with no sun to warm things up, is not nice!
I walked behind a young man who couldn't be other than a student with his purple hair, mostly hidden under a beanie, bright green trousers that exposed at least six inches of cotton boxers, and, a T-shirt in a dull grey, proclaiming a store for the best dressed gentlemen - not a good advertisement! I was very tempted to take a photograph but didn't want to open myself to a negative reaction. Yes, I know, what a wimp.
I spotted this elaborate pub sign.
Once I found the correct bus stop, bump of direction failure, I'm afraid, the journey back to Newbury was simple, back to dinner with my Uncle and Aunt, before returning to the campsite for the night.
Yesterday I drove into SE Wales up the Wye River Valley, The escarpments above the river are ready to burst into spring green, but for now are shades of grey and beige, with just a hint of buds ready to burst. The river looks as if there has been rain, running fast and brown. I did some planning during the evening and have decided to head for Hereford today and base myself at a campsite there and visit places of interest nearby, I hear the Cider trail is fun - sadly no designated driver so I may just visit the place Lonely Planet recommends as the 'must-see'.
Weather has cleared, at least for the moment so here's hoping my sunny umbrella stays with me. It's no mystery that camping when it's raining, with no sun to warm things up, is not nice!
Friday, 20 April 2012
Getting to know Hamster
This will be my third night in Hamster the Spaceship and things are really getting organised. I'm at a campsite near Newbury, whilst visiting my uncle and other family, which is lovely and quiet so sleeping well is not an issue. I did have to go and buy a pillow, those supplied were worn out polyester filled, not comfy at all. In spite of near zero (4 degrees C) temperatures overnight I've been cozy, although that exposure of flesh as one gets dressed takes me back to University days in cold old Palmerston North, when the windows frosted up at night.
We had our first go with the gas cooker this morning (me and Hamster, that is) and successfully made a pot of excellent coffee, and porridge (instant, that is). I popped up to Oxford today and had a wander in the Ashmoleum Museum which has superb displays of ancient, and not so ancient, artifacts, I visited the Egyptian, Greek and Roman areas and marvelled at the detail in sculptures, jewellery and other pieces. Once I found the right stop, getting the bus back to the park and ride was a breeze. Rather later than planned, unfortunately, which meant some queues as I headed for the A40 but nothing major. Arrived back in Newbury at 5pm for dinner with the rellies.
Tomorrow I'm heading over to Wales (has the best long range forecast just now) to start my meander up to Edinburgh. Roll on the road - and nice, quiet campsites with good hot showers! (photos tomorrow)
We had our first go with the gas cooker this morning (me and Hamster, that is) and successfully made a pot of excellent coffee, and porridge (instant, that is). I popped up to Oxford today and had a wander in the Ashmoleum Museum which has superb displays of ancient, and not so ancient, artifacts, I visited the Egyptian, Greek and Roman areas and marvelled at the detail in sculptures, jewellery and other pieces. Once I found the right stop, getting the bus back to the park and ride was a breeze. Rather later than planned, unfortunately, which meant some queues as I headed for the A40 but nothing major. Arrived back in Newbury at 5pm for dinner with the rellies.
Tomorrow I'm heading over to Wales (has the best long range forecast just now) to start my meander up to Edinburgh. Roll on the road - and nice, quiet campsites with good hot showers! (photos tomorrow)
Tuesday, 17 April 2012
Painswick and the Butchers Arms
Drifting down the hillside, Painswick is quintessentially Cotswolds, the stone houses, narrow streets, many trimmed with spring bulbs in flower, but sadly, far more houses for sale than is comfortable, assuredly due to the economic conditions. We saw a sign in a back street pub "Due to the economic conditions we have been forced to close our doors".
St Mary's Church Painswick boasts a churchyard trimmed with 99 topiarised yew trees, all numbered (you can sponsor one if you wish). Their shapes are marvellous only because of the age of many of them which means that they sport dents and jagged edges in their trimmings. I spotted a sad and loving memorial plaque in the church, see the picture.
Lunch at the Butchers Arms, Sheepscombe was delicious. The pub is very old and very famous. We approached down a seemingly endless lane, round numerous blind corners and finally found the village - we had walked through it the day before on our 3 1/2 hour ramble! Salmon fishcakes with salad, followed by bread and butter pudding with custard - yes I know, cliched but I've always been a fan. Two gentlemen perched at the bar discussed the mechanical difficulties one was having with his car - the part was going to cost £230, before any labour. I hope the repair is successful.
St Mary's Church Painswick boasts a churchyard trimmed with 99 topiarised yew trees, all numbered (you can sponsor one if you wish). Their shapes are marvellous only because of the age of many of them which means that they sport dents and jagged edges in their trimmings. I spotted a sad and loving memorial plaque in the church, see the picture.
Lunch at the Butchers Arms, Sheepscombe was delicious. The pub is very old and very famous. We approached down a seemingly endless lane, round numerous blind corners and finally found the village - we had walked through it the day before on our 3 1/2 hour ramble! Salmon fishcakes with salad, followed by bread and butter pudding with custard - yes I know, cliched but I've always been a fan. Two gentlemen perched at the bar discussed the mechanical difficulties one was having with his car - the part was going to cost £230, before any labour. I hope the repair is successful.
Some photos
I'm not a happy snapper, so every photo I take tends to have a message for me, and perhaps for others. These photos were taken yesterday and today.
First, 'though, here's the wibbly wobbly church at Woolstone. The altar is horizontal, and I think there is one perpendicular line in the image, otherwise everything is off-square. At the risk of being trite I found it charming, not least because it's a living breathing church, in a country churchyard, with an orchard next door, and it may be corny but it's real.
First, 'though, here's the wibbly wobbly church at Woolstone. The altar is horizontal, and I think there is one perpendicular line in the image, otherwise everything is off-square. At the risk of being trite I found it charming, not least because it's a living breathing church, in a country churchyard, with an orchard next door, and it may be corny but it's real.
Monday, 16 April 2012
Walking off Sunday lunch... we tried anyway
We had lunch with my host's sister and brother in law, (Roast turkey breast, steamed and roast veg, blackberry and apple crumble to follow, YUM) Of course I ate too much. Then we set off for the wilds(!) of the Cotswolds for a ramble up hill and down dale, across farms, through copses and woods, down country lanes (watch for cars!), through farmyards - for 3 1/2 hours! Five layers was enough to keep me warm (thin layers, that is) with a woolly scarf and the hood of my jacket up on the windy ridges. It was a lovely fine day, the wind across the tops was icy - well I am from the winterless north, anything under 10 degrees is freezing, isn't it?
We saw views across the Vale of Evesham (look it up!), the Malverns (they are volcanic in origin but very worn down to hills), not mountains. We also walked along bridle paths, across farm rights of way, among ewes and lambs, spotting pheasants, crows, tits and robins. Daffodils, bluebells, wood anemomes, lilacs. Rabbits too of course. Not forgetting the sturdy cotswold stone houses and cottages, mostly slate roofed, very few thatched. They are apparently very good for keeping a menagerie, thatched roofs, that is, mostly very undesirable as pets, unfortunately.
England is certainly a countryside shaped by the hand of man, over millennia the fields have been tilled, fertilised and harvested, surely most of the trees have been either planted by man or nurtured for the benefit of that all powerful creature. New Zealand, only lived in by man for about 600 years, first by indigenous Maori and then by settlers from this part of the world, is comparatively untouched.
Today we tiki-toured around more of the Cotswolds, to Painswick to see St Mary's Church which has 99 Yews in its Churchyard, all trimmed to shape, none the same, some pairs formed into archways over the paths. We had lunch at the Butchers Arms, and old favourite pub, more lovely grub, and passable coffee. Pics here http://www.panoramio.com/m/photo/51292849. We got lost on the way back to Cheltenham, while trying to avoid Gloucester and the trust maps app in my iphone found us again and directed our wheels onto the right road again. It's a merveilleuse device.
We saw views across the Vale of Evesham (look it up!), the Malverns (they are volcanic in origin but very worn down to hills), not mountains. We also walked along bridle paths, across farm rights of way, among ewes and lambs, spotting pheasants, crows, tits and robins. Daffodils, bluebells, wood anemomes, lilacs. Rabbits too of course. Not forgetting the sturdy cotswold stone houses and cottages, mostly slate roofed, very few thatched. They are apparently very good for keeping a menagerie, thatched roofs, that is, mostly very undesirable as pets, unfortunately.
England is certainly a countryside shaped by the hand of man, over millennia the fields have been tilled, fertilised and harvested, surely most of the trees have been either planted by man or nurtured for the benefit of that all powerful creature. New Zealand, only lived in by man for about 600 years, first by indigenous Maori and then by settlers from this part of the world, is comparatively untouched.
Today we tiki-toured around more of the Cotswolds, to Painswick to see St Mary's Church which has 99 Yews in its Churchyard, all trimmed to shape, none the same, some pairs formed into archways over the paths. We had lunch at the Butchers Arms, and old favourite pub, more lovely grub, and passable coffee. Pics here http://www.panoramio.com/m/photo/51292849. We got lost on the way back to Cheltenham, while trying to avoid Gloucester and the trust maps app in my iphone found us again and directed our wheels onto the right road again. It's a merveilleuse device.
As promised, a photo of my mini-campervan, which arrived in England via New Zealand, a veteran of the Rugby World Cup, methinks. Point of origin, Japan, sent to Kiwiland as a second-hand vehicle. Now ready and waiting to accommodate and transort visitors to the UK for the Queen's Jubilee and the Olympics.
Saturday, 14 April 2012
Costwolds wandering, day 1
First stop was Woolstone Church, which, due to having been built on unstable ground, looks like an elaborate cake that has been nudged in different directions but a succession of cheeky giants. The tower leans one way, the window above the altar looks as if it was set in a building in a different universe. No right angles, or plumb lines here! We arrived as a group of trianee bellringers were about the practiser so once they had tipped the bells up, they played a practise round for me. I recorded it on the trusty iPhone. Photo later, 'though I don't think one pic will do justice to its wibbly wobblyness.
Then on to Tewkesbury, cathedral and the two rivers. Clearly, the fabric of Tewkesbury Cathedral was severely damaged during the dissolution of the monasteries, and was lovingly recreated during the reformation, and since, although much of the exquisite stonework has been lost or damaged beyond repair, still a lovely place.
It was a bit chilly, so after eating our sandwiches beside the Severn, we hopped back in the car and started tiki touring. Stopped in Winchcombe and had a stroll, well more of a walk realy, from the town to the Sudely Castle Gatehouse and back into town. It was mid afternoon so the sun was catching Dents Terrace, pic here and more info at http://www.ukattraction.com/heart-of-england/dents-terrace.htm
Then on to Tewkesbury, cathedral and the two rivers. Clearly, the fabric of Tewkesbury Cathedral was severely damaged during the dissolution of the monasteries, and was lovingly recreated during the reformation, and since, although much of the exquisite stonework has been lost or damaged beyond repair, still a lovely place.
It was a bit chilly, so after eating our sandwiches beside the Severn, we hopped back in the car and started tiki touring. Stopped in Winchcombe and had a stroll, well more of a walk realy, from the town to the Sudely Castle Gatehouse and back into town. It was mid afternoon so the sun was catching Dents Terrace, pic here and more info at http://www.ukattraction.com/heart-of-england/dents-terrace.htm
Hamster the Spaceship
Friday was 'leave London' day. Time to head for the Spaceship head office at Hayes, Middlesex, and pick up my mini campervan. Spaceships are the result of Kiwi ingenuity, a basic campervan, built into alarge people mover type car. The come with a two burner cooker, a bed, a fridge, water bottle and the necessary pots and pans, plates and cutlery, for camping. My Spaceship, dubbed 'Hamster' was waiting for me when I arrived after a quick run up the line from Paddington to Hayes. (Next stop Heathrow, on the London Connection, so handy for drop-off and head for the airport in a few weeks time.) I'll upload a pic of Hamster later.
Each Spaceship has a name, I spotted R2D2, Saturn, and other random names, painted on the driver's and passenger's doors of each vehicle. As one who thoroughly enjoys the yobbish antics of the Top Gear Team I felt a van called Hamster was reasonably appropriate.( I wonder if they have a 'Captain Slow'?) It transpired that many of the vans in the depot , while secondhand japanese vehicles, had arrived in the UK via New Zealand, yes, truly. I think the Rugby World Cup, where many visiting Rugby fand hired campers for their stay, meant that the fleet down under had to be considerably enlarged, leaving a nice surplus for shipping to the UK for the northern summer trade.
The satnav hired with the van had never heard of the address of my friend in Cheltenham so once again my trusty iPhone came to the fore and showed me the way, right to her door in a two year old house, in a newly developed Close. I only had to do double circles on two roundabouts, due to missing the exit, and had to retrace my steps (wheelturns?) twice because of missing a turning. I'd have preferred using the satnav, its not a recommended activity having to consult the directions on one's phone while driving. If I can't get the Satnav to find my next port of call I'll 'phone home' to Spaceship central for a troubleshooting session.
How's the weather been - chilly, but no rain to speak of so far, and improving forecasts.
Each Spaceship has a name, I spotted R2D2, Saturn, and other random names, painted on the driver's and passenger's doors of each vehicle. As one who thoroughly enjoys the yobbish antics of the Top Gear Team I felt a van called Hamster was reasonably appropriate.( I wonder if they have a 'Captain Slow'?) It transpired that many of the vans in the depot , while secondhand japanese vehicles, had arrived in the UK via New Zealand, yes, truly. I think the Rugby World Cup, where many visiting Rugby fand hired campers for their stay, meant that the fleet down under had to be considerably enlarged, leaving a nice surplus for shipping to the UK for the northern summer trade.
The satnav hired with the van had never heard of the address of my friend in Cheltenham so once again my trusty iPhone came to the fore and showed me the way, right to her door in a two year old house, in a newly developed Close. I only had to do double circles on two roundabouts, due to missing the exit, and had to retrace my steps (wheelturns?) twice because of missing a turning. I'd have preferred using the satnav, its not a recommended activity having to consult the directions on one's phone while driving. If I can't get the Satnav to find my next port of call I'll 'phone home' to Spaceship central for a troubleshooting session.
How's the weather been - chilly, but no rain to speak of so far, and improving forecasts.
Friday, 13 April 2012
What about London, then
Seem to have lost the original text of this entry. Blow!
So, can I remember what I said?
48 hours isn't long but here's the general impression - cleaner than 35 years ago, many lovely buildings looking lovely. Viewing Hyde Park from my hotel window (Soroptimists, 63 Bayswater Road, I noted many locals running, sorry, jogging, Dads playing footy with the kids, dog's running free, (not for Londoners the draconian dog control laws of Auckland!).
On the streets (around Westminster and the city) general dress was as eclectic as downunder - few ladies clearly in business dress, some men in suits, the rest pretty casual. The ubiquity of mobile phones had to be seen to be believed, many were walking along talking to someone or other, how they could hear was a mystery to me. I suspect that the iPhone and smartphone have become the British direct access to the web, perhaps in preference to desktop or laptop computers. Certainly an inexpensive portal.
I was warned that Coffee here is NOT GOOD! I am inclined to agree, two, that's 2, folks, good coffees since arriving. In desperation I bought a cafetiere and ground coffee at the nearest ASDA, very disappointing, I can only conclude that the quality of beans available for general consumption is abysmal. Note, now hunting for a purveyor of coffee, so I can buy some Kenya, or Blue Mountain, and enjoy my caffeine again.
So, can I remember what I said?
48 hours isn't long but here's the general impression - cleaner than 35 years ago, many lovely buildings looking lovely. Viewing Hyde Park from my hotel window (Soroptimists, 63 Bayswater Road, I noted many locals running, sorry, jogging, Dads playing footy with the kids, dog's running free, (not for Londoners the draconian dog control laws of Auckland!).
On the streets (around Westminster and the city) general dress was as eclectic as downunder - few ladies clearly in business dress, some men in suits, the rest pretty casual. The ubiquity of mobile phones had to be seen to be believed, many were walking along talking to someone or other, how they could hear was a mystery to me. I suspect that the iPhone and smartphone have become the British direct access to the web, perhaps in preference to desktop or laptop computers. Certainly an inexpensive portal.
I was warned that Coffee here is NOT GOOD! I am inclined to agree, two, that's 2, folks, good coffees since arriving. In desperation I bought a cafetiere and ground coffee at the nearest ASDA, very disappointing, I can only conclude that the quality of beans available for general consumption is abysmal. Note, now hunting for a purveyor of coffee, so I can buy some Kenya, or Blue Mountain, and enjoy my caffeine again.
Thursday, 12 April 2012
Most of my brain has caught up
So, to Thursday, my day in London. Amazingly, in spite of forecasts of heavy showers, none of them fell on me, although there was significant rumbling and dark black clouds roiled around the heavens as I walked back across Hyde Park early this afternoon. It appeared as if I was the only person aware that it might rain soon - really, everyone else in the park, some out walking the dog with no apparent rain gear available were quite oblivious.
When I was last in London the National Gallery was closed for refurbishment, so this time... my tube travel was spot on today, right down to buying an Oyster Card from the machine, first use of my Loaded for Travel card was painless. 3 hours in the galleries was all my legs and back could stand so i wandered out back into Trafalgar square, took a snap of jolly old Nelson's Column - you can see Big Ben in the background - and header for Regent Street - detoured a bit to take a pic of the blossom in St James Square and finally headed west along Picadilly, all the way to Hyde Park Corner. I must say the iphone mapping device is very clever, no excuse for getting lost these days, and no need to be such an obvious visitor with one's map in hand. I took the diagonal across Hyde park back to my hotel and am now resisting the urge to have a nap. I finally went to bed last night at about 2am local time which isn't helpful, when you are trying to reset the biological clock.
When I was last in London the National Gallery was closed for refurbishment, so this time... my tube travel was spot on today, right down to buying an Oyster Card from the machine, first use of my Loaded for Travel card was painless. 3 hours in the galleries was all my legs and back could stand so i wandered out back into Trafalgar square, took a snap of jolly old Nelson's Column - you can see Big Ben in the background - and header for Regent Street - detoured a bit to take a pic of the blossom in St James Square and finally headed west along Picadilly, all the way to Hyde Park Corner. I must say the iphone mapping device is very clever, no excuse for getting lost these days, and no need to be such an obvious visitor with one's map in hand. I took the diagonal across Hyde park back to my hotel and am now resisting the urge to have a nap. I finally went to bed last night at about 2am local time which isn't helpful, when you are trying to reset the biological clock.
Wednesday, 11 April 2012
Spring blossoms!
Longhaul flying is so desperately boring - not to mention uncomfortable, but I survived and the flight landed at Heathrow within about 2 minutes of scheduled arrival time. My pretty turquoise and lime green Kathmandu bag did it's sore thumb impression on the belt and a quick trip into a disabled toilet (no not the toilet, the users!)gave me secure space to do the moneybelt thing with my passport and some of my cash. I also layered on a few clothes, it was 4 degrees C in London at 6am today, but a beautiful, clear and sunny morning. Heathrow Airport didn't disappoint, it is as soulless as ever, but the double shot latte from the cafe was good, and very welcome, I needed caffeine and the coffee on the plane was vile - undrinkable!
I took the Picadilly line train into London and was excited to see spring blossoms in tbe backyards of houses the trainline passed. The I had a bit of an adventure on the way to my hotel on Bayswater road.
It's several decades, well all right, 35 years, since I was last in London and I caught the wrong train out of Earls Court to get up to Bayswater. (Up, as it's up on the tube map) It was easy enough to catch a train back to Earls Court and ensure that I caught the correct train up the District line to Bayswater Station, then join the numerous other visitors/travellers, trundling baggage along Bayswater Road. Time to enjoy the sunshine and people watch.
Of course my room wasn't ready at 9.30 am, so I deposited said colourful bag at the hotel and legged it onto Oxford street to my previously planned destination of the O2 shop to buy my micro-sim for local calls, texts and lots of data, then a pret-a-manger lunch and a stroll back to hotel, through bits of Hyde Park.
When one is young... there is a high degree of obliviousness to place. My hotel is just down the road from Clarendon Gardens where one of the Georgian Dukes had a grand house - the gardens are, of course locked, and available to residents only - just across the Road from Hyde Park, where there were people out riding on Rotten Row this morning as they have done for centuries. Not for them the jeans and crash hat of a Kiwi out exercising the horse, these were in hacking jackets and regulation colour jodphurs, as you might expect. Lots of people also, running, with children - lots of strollers (or pushchairs, if you will). On my walk back from Oxford Street, through the park, I passed delightful beds of massed pansies, with colour-coordinated tulips growing through them. I'll take photos tomorrow, weather permitting, it is the UK after all!
Lovely surprise when I entered my bijou room at 63 - the Soroptimists Club Hotel (no I'm not a member, its open to all) My room looks west over Hyde Park. i'll post a pic tomorrow. A room with a view! I'll post a pic tomorrow.
The welcome and much anticipated hot shower was followed by a much needed kip, then a bit of general messing about - too much time wasting, by the time I was ready for dinner dinner was off so I nicked a couple of weetabix and some fruit from the already laid out breakfast buffet, I'm going to be pretty hungry by Breakfast time!
Now time to take the sleeping pill and get some sleep before the northern hemisphere day arrives. Perhaps my brain will have caught up a bit more by then.
I took the Picadilly line train into London and was excited to see spring blossoms in tbe backyards of houses the trainline passed. The I had a bit of an adventure on the way to my hotel on Bayswater road.
It's several decades, well all right, 35 years, since I was last in London and I caught the wrong train out of Earls Court to get up to Bayswater. (Up, as it's up on the tube map) It was easy enough to catch a train back to Earls Court and ensure that I caught the correct train up the District line to Bayswater Station, then join the numerous other visitors/travellers, trundling baggage along Bayswater Road. Time to enjoy the sunshine and people watch.
Of course my room wasn't ready at 9.30 am, so I deposited said colourful bag at the hotel and legged it onto Oxford street to my previously planned destination of the O2 shop to buy my micro-sim for local calls, texts and lots of data, then a pret-a-manger lunch and a stroll back to hotel, through bits of Hyde Park.
When one is young... there is a high degree of obliviousness to place. My hotel is just down the road from Clarendon Gardens where one of the Georgian Dukes had a grand house - the gardens are, of course locked, and available to residents only - just across the Road from Hyde Park, where there were people out riding on Rotten Row this morning as they have done for centuries. Not for them the jeans and crash hat of a Kiwi out exercising the horse, these were in hacking jackets and regulation colour jodphurs, as you might expect. Lots of people also, running, with children - lots of strollers (or pushchairs, if you will). On my walk back from Oxford Street, through the park, I passed delightful beds of massed pansies, with colour-coordinated tulips growing through them. I'll take photos tomorrow, weather permitting, it is the UK after all!
Lovely surprise when I entered my bijou room at 63 - the Soroptimists Club Hotel (no I'm not a member, its open to all) My room looks west over Hyde Park. i'll post a pic tomorrow. A room with a view! I'll post a pic tomorrow.
The welcome and much anticipated hot shower was followed by a much needed kip, then a bit of general messing about - too much time wasting, by the time I was ready for dinner dinner was off so I nicked a couple of weetabix and some fruit from the already laid out breakfast buffet, I'm going to be pretty hungry by Breakfast time!
Now time to take the sleeping pill and get some sleep before the northern hemisphere day arrives. Perhaps my brain will have caught up a bit more by then.
Friday, 6 April 2012
3 sleeps to go
3 sleeps to go
I think I am all organised. We have come to Kerikeri to attend the wedding of dear friends and meet some very old friends from our misspent, well, perhaps not that, just much enjoyed youth. Tomorrow we return to Auckland and I'm into what Stu calls spinout day - not really justified. I'll be packing and doing final sorting out of what I'll taking in what bag, ie on plane and in hold, no problems with capacity and weight, everything is designed to match so not an extensive wardrobe, all casual. I've finally got all the gifts I want for the people I'm visiting - any more from airport shops, souvenir type stuff.
I think I am all organised. We have come to Kerikeri to attend the wedding of dear friends and meet some very old friends from our misspent, well, perhaps not that, just much enjoyed youth. Tomorrow we return to Auckland and I'm into what Stu calls spinout day - not really justified. I'll be packing and doing final sorting out of what I'll taking in what bag, ie on plane and in hold, no problems with capacity and weight, everything is designed to match so not an extensive wardrobe, all casual. I've finally got all the gifts I want for the people I'm visiting - any more from airport shops, souvenir type stuff.
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